Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
